Below is a check-list of items we need to have. The list is divided into shared team equipment and personal gear.
Items marked with * are required by the race rules or Canadian federal regulations. Those marked with ** are recommended by the race committee.
The following table lists equipment shared by the team. Most of the important items we already own (the provider's name is shown below), or have arranged or plan to obtain in Canada (marked by the label Canada). However, there are a few items of gear we are still lacking, and if possible should avoid buying (marked ???). If you can offer the team use of any of these items, please let me know. In particular, I need people to volunteer to bring their new ME tents which should be arriving soon.
We need to be careful that we don't over-equip the team because many of us insist on bringing our own versions of the same bit of kit, of which the team only needs one. I want to be quite strict about this: we are going to struggle to be within our airline weight allowance as it is. So if you have a piece of team equipment that you particularly want to provide, but which is assigned to someone else, please tell me and I'll reassign it to you rather than take any more than we need.
Similarly, if you are down to bring something that you can't provide or if there's any other gear you think we need as a team, please tell me.
|Will be provided by a Canadian sponsor.|
|2 person, AR Ultralite Tent for overnight stages.|
|2 person, AR Ultralite Tent for overnight stages.|
|2 person, AR Ultralite Tent for overnight stages.|
|2 person freestanding tent: a Terra Nova Super Quasar. Getting tired, but still functional.|
|At least one more 2 person tent needed for when we don't have our group tent but need to camp out.|
|For cooking and as a communal area. Especially useful on overnight legs of race where we won't have our group tent. Dave has a tarp that is perfect: it's big and is light enough to carry on the overnight stages.|
|There's a question mark over whether we'll need this. There are rumours that showering facilities may be provided at many race campsites. The La Ronge campsite definitely has showers.|
|Our boat is sitting on its trailer awaiting our arrival in Prince Albert.|
|Fibreglass repair kit**|
|Has anyone got any spare patches of canoe-grade fibreglass cloth? We'll get 5-minute epoxy in Canada.|
|Not just for patching damaged gear, but if anyone has any distinctly Scottish gaffer tape, it will be really useful for marking our gear. With 300 people all camping together, it could become very easy for everyone's gear to get mixed up.|
|Need 2 at least 10m long. Having a bagged throwrope attached with a karabiner to the front and back of the canoe is the best multi-purpose roping system: it's ready for use as a throwbag for rescue—it can be quickly unclipped from the boat and thrown to a distressed swimmer; swim the free end of the rope ashore, with less chance of tangling and snagging than with a lose coil, and you can use it to tow a swamped/overturned boat to safety; you can use it for lining, usually leaving it clipped where it is; it keeps the rope safely bagged out the way of feet and arms in the event of a tip thereby reducing the chance of getting caught up in a tangle; and similarly, the rope is contained and packed away ready for portaging. The longer the throwrope the better (except for portaging!)|
|Buoyant line (1x15m+)*|
|Must meet Canadian federal regulations and be at least 15m long. Again, used for boat/personel rescue or for lining. The longer the better for lining.|
|1 will be attached to each throwrope (front and back.)|
|Z rescue kit|
|Petzel zoom headtorch.|
|I've arranged the rental of a sat phone.|
|Fiona is probably bringing a super-duper mobile communications centre with fold-out umbrellas and the lot. Watch out Blofeld.|
|Tri-band mobile phone|
|For communications when we split into two parties, and for confirming reservations etc. We'll buy pay-as-you-go sim cards in Canada (can anyone confirm that this works?)|
|Tri-band mobile phone|
|The other half of the walkie-talkie duo.|
|For: in-car navigation; hook-up with the mobile phone (definitely not satellite!) to do web updates and emails; storage of digital photos for those bringing digital cameras.|
|Tiny cigarette lighter adapter outputting 115V AC, 60Hz, 75W for charging toys.|
|For containing individual's drybags and other group gear when portaging.|
|Our Canadian ground support operative has arranged a big propane stove for our use.|
|Light, but powerful camping stoves|
|2 small, compact and light but powerful stoves needed for overnight stages. Cooking on campfires takes forever, and on most days you just want a warm drink and a meal without worrying about collecting firewood and kindling. If we can't come up with these between ourselves, we can either buy them in Canada, or I can bring a heavy, cumbersome Coleman double-burner stove, but it's a hassle to portage. Naptha (aka white gas or Coleman fuel) is the most convenient fuel type to use, but not at the expense of buying new stoves. Has anyone got an MSR dragonfly, whisperlite or similar? Failing that, has anyone got a minute butane/propane-mix canister stove?|
|Group size pots and pans|
|We'll buy these cheap items in a Walmart, or similar, in Canada.|
|Lightweight pots and pans**|
|Small MSR two pan set. 1 x 2L and 1 x 1.5L pots.|
|Lightweight pots and pans**|
|Need another lightweight pot set for the overnight stages, preferably with a large, i.e. 3L+, pot.|
|Can't carry this on the plane. Besides, it's much cheaper in Canada. Naptha is around 15 times cheaper!|
|I've ordered a camp water filter from a supplier in Canada.|
|We'll buy a rugged water filter in MEC for use in the canoe for when our bottles run dry.|
|Fabric/flexible-shelled water butt (with reliable stopper) for storing and transporting filtered water. Needs to fit in a rucksac and stay water-tight. At least 15L needed.|
|Beware chapped lips.|
|We'll buy big tubs of this stuff in Canada.|
|Don't underestimate the power of the sun. You will get frazzled without this.|
|Reservation numbers for flights, van hire etc.|
|Lochmonster credit cards|
|For buying almost everything while we're in Canada.|
|Travel Insurance documents|
|The race committee is providing every team with laminated maps.|
|Waterproof map case*|
|Someone must have one of these?|
|Canadian Topo maps of the route.|
|Bog standard Silva sighting compass with magnetic declination screw which is quite useful in Canada. Also comes with a mirror so you can see how burnt you've got.|
|GPS for boat|
|A Garmin GPSMAP 76C, complete with Canadian Topo maps loaded onto it.|
|GPS for boat, backup|
|GPS for support vehicle|
|A Garmin GPS 18 so we don't get lost on Saskatchewan's backroads.|
Safety & Survival
|Large orange garbage bag*|
|First Aid Kit*|
|Alistair is putting together a practical kit that fulfills the minumum race requirements but will also be useful if needed.|
|For kindling and Ray Mears wannabies.|
|Have to buy in Canada. Can't transport on airplane.|
|Have to buy in Canada. Can't transport on airplane.|
|Have to buy in Canada. Can't transport on airplane.|
|Armed with a small, light flexible blade, you can put together a very effective saw using a few loose sticks and a bit of string. Once you've seen it demonstrated you'll understand why we have to have one of these.|
|Flint and tinder|
|A very important piece of team gear.|
|Sian has been working on simple gift bags that we can distribute in Canada.|
|I've got a few more gifts for individuals in Canada who've been especially helpful.|
Team Equipment by provider
The following rearranges the above information by provider to give a quick checklist, broken down by person, of what team gear they should bring and highlights what we're still lacking.
|Camp shower||Fibreglass repair kit||Duct tape|
|Light, but powerful camping stoves||Lightweight pots and pans||Water butt|
|First Aid Kit||Bagpipes|
|Sponge||Satellite phone||Group stove|
|Group size pots and pans||Stove fuel||Water filter|
|Bear spray||Flares (6)||Insect repellant|
|Buoyant line (1x15m+)||Z rescue kit||Tri-band mobile phone|
|Harnessed drybag||Harnessed drybag|
|Waterproof torch||Tri-band mobile phone||Laptop|
|Inverter||Harnessed drybag||Lightweight pots and pans|
|Tickets||Lochmonster credit cards||Travel Insurance documents|
|Maps||Compass||GPS for boat|
|GPS for boat, backup||GPS for support vehicle||Large orange garbage bag|
|Flint and tinder||Hunting Knife||Waterproof lighter|
|Waterproof matches||More gifts|
|Waterproof map case||Gift Bags|
Loch Lomond training weekend: Katrina and Alistair paddle towards Ben Lomond.
Loch Lomond training weekend: Alistair's smokin' fire.
The following is a check-list for what we each need to be equipped with. It's not hard and fast, but rather is intended as a guide. The underlying principle is that we should each have 2 outfits—ideally one for warm weather and a second for cold weather. And not much else. Since the race rules demand that we carry a spare set of clothing with us at all time, we can wear one set and carry the other in a drybag.
Except for passports etc, anything you don't have, you can get in MEC in Calgary where it will probably be cheaper than in Britain. There's also a small amount of potential for sharing a couple of less crucial items and making do.
|Sleeping bag*||It's unlikely to go below freezing at night, but it may get close.|
|Sleeping mat||Air matresses, e.g. Thermarests, are much more comfortable than closed-cell foam matresses like Karrimats. Remember, this will be your bed for nearly 4 weeks.|
|Torch||A headtorch is preferrable: think about making a late night visit to an unlit outhouse. You know what I mean.|
|Towel||Not just for the pool, but for drying wet feet, wet hair, a leaky tent ground-sheet and a whole host of other uses. Towels are very bulky, and a good solution are the camping towels available in shops, e.g. Paktowel, which are light, compact and very absorbant. We could share, not by switching a towel between users, but by cutting a large camping towel into smaller pieces and distributing. They won't be great but they'll do the job while being cheap, light and small.|
|Paddle*||Perhaps the most significant item of them all. I've ordered these from Grey Owl Paddles.|
|PFD*||We'll buy these in MEC in Calgary. That way, I can ensure everyone gets a Canadian federally approved PFD that fits well, provides sufficient ventilation and freedom of movement around and under the arms for an expedition like this, yet everyone can still get the other personal features they'd like.|
|Whistle**||Everyone should have a small whistle attached to their PFD for attracting attention.|
|Bathing costume||For Banff. Could double up as shorts (men), or a canoeing vest (women.)|
|Longsleeved shirt||Quick-drying is recommended. It's important that you have one long-sleeved shirt for protection from the sun, the mosquitoes and the black-flies.|
|Shorts||Yes, many days will be sunny and warm. Zip-off trousers are perfect.|
|Trousers||Quick-drying very strongly recommended. This is what you'll wear most paddling days, and you'll get them wet.|
|T-shirt (spare)||Quick-drying recommended, but cotton will suffice.|
|T-shirt (team)||Sian has arranged these.|
|Gloves||Gloves are needed for two purposes: warmth and protection from blisters. You might get away without the need for warmth, but everyone should have a pair of gloves for blister protection. Cheap cycling gloves are good.|
|Sun/Rain hat||Most people wear baseball caps. These are quite good for long hair—pull the bunch through small hole at the rear. But for those more sensitive to the sun or for rainy days, I would strongly recommend a hat with a full broad brim that has a chin strap to secure it to your head in the wind. Tilley hats are fantastic, if a little hot, and cheap copies are available in MEC though the original is still the best. Baseball caps look better and are slightly cooler, but be prepared to apply huge quantities of suncream to your neck and ears.|
|Sunglasses||Sun and water or driving for hours at a time can lead to snow blindness. Remember, we'll be paddling east in the mornings, so the sun shimmering on the water will be very bright, dazzling and straight in our faces. Sunglasses with good lenses that remove 100% UV and a fair chunk of visible light are strongly recommended. Polarised as well? Even better. A £5 pair from the garage may seem do the job but might leave you with sore, watery eyes.|
|Camp shoes||A spare pair of shoes/sandals/boots for around camp is invaluable when your feet have got wet and you want to put on dry socks.|
|Canoeing shoes||There's no perfect single footwear solution. Supportive, grippy boots like walking boots are the best thing for portaging and abrasive river work, but lighter, more flexible shoes (or on hot days, bare feet!) are better for paddling. Sandals aren't very good as they don't offer enough support for portaging or protection for your toes and ankles from rocks when lining, but they are great for around camp. Specialist river shoes or quick-drying "mesh" trainers are excellent and neoprene booties are fine but offer little grip. So the simplest all-purpose canoeing footwear is a pair of ratty trainers.|
|Neoprene socks or booties||Recommended as the only practical way of keeping your feet from getting very, very cold on chilly, wet days, or when we have to line the canoe frequently. Probably cheaper in Canada.|
|Socks||For around town and around camp, or when you've had enough of those stinking neoprene things.|
|Kilt or Tartan Skirt|
|Thermal top||For wearing in bed on chilly nights, or under heavier layers on cold days.|
|Thermal trousers||As above.|
|Fleece jacket||Or alternative warm insulating top. Wool is quite good to canoe in, but takes forever to dry. This will probably be your pillow.|
|Fleece trousers||Or alternative warm and quick-drying legwear.|
|Waterproof jacket||100% waterproof and high breathability is best. Garment shouldn't be too big or be made of too heavy a fabric or it will runch and chafe.|
|Waterproof trousers||100% waterproof is desirable, but breathability is much less an issue than with the upper-body.|
|Bras||Soft, non-underwired bras strongly recommended.|
|Knickers, boxers or underpants||Non-cotton is better, but quantity does compensate for quality, so bring loads of pants. It's not nice having a soggy bottom.|
|Drybag||Each person in the boat should have all their personal day kit in 1 small drybag. At portages and obstacles, the small drybags should be put into larger rucksacs for carrying.|
|Camping bowl||Plastic or metal. Defintely not China. A bowl is better than a plate because you can use it for soup etc.|
|Camping cup||Plastic or metal. Defintely not China.|
|Camping cutlery||Small knife/fork/spoon set.|
|Water bottle*||Any old water bottle will do. Sigg and Nalgene bottles are superb but 2L coke bottles are pretty good too! Though many people swear by them, my experience of Platypus/Camelbaks has made me a little sceptical that all the fiddling with the hose and clips to get it all hooked up, pfaffing around cleaning the nozzle after you've accidently dragged it through mud or sand and having to chew and suck on the little mouthpiece to get only a tiny drizzle makes them worthwhile. But many experienced marathon paddlers swear by them, though they usually don't have to portage. So if you're a fan and you get a PFD that can hold them, a hydration bag will be good. And if it's not, you can buy some Pepsi.|
|Personal credit/debit cards||For souvenirs and additional personal stuff.|
Safety & Survival
|Mosquito head-net||On the one occasion you'll use it, you'll be so thankful you bought it.|
The flight maximum baggage allowance is 2 pieces totalling up to 20kg. To aid fitting everything into the van in Canada and so that each person can carry their own bags alone, please can everyone fit all their gear into 1 check-in bag and 1 item of hand luggage. And given that we will have much more stuff (like paddles and lifejackets!) to bring back, I'd advise everyone to be under 15kg on the flight out.
Please have a trial pack—don't leave it to the night before we leave. You'll notice very early on how difficult it is to fit everything in. There are lots of little ways you can trim back: don't take duplicates (1 fleece only, 1 long-sleeved shirt only, 2 t-shirts only etc.); think about holding off on any more purchases you have to make until we get to Canada (things will be cheaper there—and for the return trip we can post the bulky but light stuff home); try to accept that you may have to use the same clothes for canoeing and for around town; we could get away with sharing a few items like torches and snip ourselves mini-towels?.
Lot of miscellaneous consumable stuff, like toiletries, can be bought in Canada. We're going to be there for 4 weeks, so there's plenty of time to work through the tubes of toothpaste we buy.
Shoes are always tricky to pack. They are bulky and difficult to fit in as they're usually an afterthought. Perhaps you could wear an old pair of trainers on the plane (which you'll use for canoeing) and buy a nice pair of town shoes in Canada. At the end, bin the trainers (they won't be good for much else) and wear your good shoes home? But don't sacrifice important stuff. Everyone should have or intend to get everything on the personal list (or functional equivelants.) So, no excuses: squeeze that kilt in!
The burden of the shared team gear needs to be spread evenly amongst everyone. There's a lot of stuff there and it's unfair to expect a few individuals to sacrifice their personal luggage allowance for it all. For example, Alistair's pipes will take up his whole handluggage allowance, Sian's gift bags are going to weigh a ton, and Fiona's sat phone will also be surprisingly heavy. So I'd like to distribute team gear before we leave. If possible, some can be distributed at the final weekend meet. The remainder can be distributed at the airport, so please can everyone leave a large space in the top of your bag.
Paddling Day Bag
Each paddler in the canoe will be responsible for their personal day kit which should be contained within a small drybag. Between the team, we have enough small drybags for everyone (we've got 7 15L or 25L bags coming from ME alone, so I ask anyone who has spares to offer them to team mates.) The race rules demand a minimum of the following personal stuff to be carried every day:
- Rain gear
- Change of clothes (min. shirt and long trousers)
- Water bottle or cup
Please note the necessity of being able to produce a spare pair of long trousers every day you are paddling, and let this inform your gear choices. For example, from the check-list above, on cool days you could wear your fleece trousers and carry your lightweight trousers as spare, and vice versa on warm days. But you do need two pairs of trousers (your waterproofs don't count as you've got to carry rain gear as well.)
Tay training weekend: There and back again—a 45km tale of adventure on a loch in Novacraft Canoes.
Tay training weekend: Heading away from Ben Lawers and Kenmore bridge, in the rapids downstream Dave demonstrates his graceful canoe control.
Paddling long distances requires a technique that maximizes efficiency and minimizes stress on muscles, tendons and joints. Endurance is the name of this game and the paddling style that best lends itself to this kind of undertaking is quite different to that adopted by most folks enjoying a leisurely day out on the river, negotiating a few rapids and having a wee blether.
Though it's often called the marathon stroke, this is a misnomer as it's useful for far more than endurance race events such as the SCCQ and has been around since long before X-treme sports events. Look at the paintings of the voyageurs—anyone who has paddled very long distances will have found themselves adopting a stroke very similar to this. Experience shows it to be the best all-purpose paddling style—you'll move faster and more efficiently and be able to keep going for longer and longer. Yup, it's Viagra for canoers.
Paddling as a team
Before talking about the technicalities of putting the paddle in the water, there are a couple of other issues that, though obvious, should be mentioned and are probably more important to going quickly than the stroke style itself.
Paddle in synch
Firstly, it is very important the all the paddlers in the canoe (whether in tandems or voyageur canoes) are paddling in synch. Exactly in synch. If everyone applies power at the same time, the boat stays stable (not rocking from side to side) which greatly improves its glide through the water. The bow paddler (the person at the front of the canoe) sets the pace and everyone follows from their lead. Watch the paddler-in-front's upper hand rather than their paddle blade to keep the rhythm. (If you watch the blade, you'll tend to be slightly behind their stroke.)
Maintain a high stroke rate
Secondly: the all important stroke rate. It is far better to apply lots of small amounts of power than fewer big efforts. Between each stroke, while the boat is gliding, it noticeably slows down. You need to minimise the time between strokes to keep the canoe's momentum high. But more significantly, paddling with a faster stroke rate puts much less strain on your muscles and tendons as you don't have to pull as hard to keep the same speed. Though it seems a little counter-intuitive, when you're paddling long days, day after day, it is far more sustainable to paddle with a fast stroke rate!
We should be aiming to paddle with a stroke rate no lower than 50 strokes per minute. This is much less ambitious than it sounds, and is utterly achievable even by inexperienced paddlers.
The bow paddler
Because of these two aims, the most important position in the canoe is that of the bow paddler. Setting and sustaining a good stroke rate over the many hours of a canoeing day is very difficult, and since they won't see their team-mates all day, it can be a lonely place. The bow paddler has a much greater responsibility for the team's speed than anyone else in the canoe.
One problem with the marathon stroke is that it doesn't scale down well. In other words, it feels very forced and unnatural at a slow stroke rate and canoe pace. On the other hand, even complete beginners tend to catch on to it very quickly, with little instruction, when paddling fast. It's at speed and when you're putting in a bit of effort that it intuitively falls into place and feels right.
Stage 1: The catch
Figure 2. The sighting. Photo by Warren Long.
- Your paddle blade should enter the water near your feet, assuming your legs are stretched forward. See figure 1.
- Your upper hand should be at or slightly above your head, but in line with the centre of your head.
- The paddle should be angled slightly forward and slightly out to one side. If you aim to put your paddle in vertically, you'll probably get it about right!
- You should be able to see through the angle formed between your upper arm, your fist and the paddle shaft. See figure 2. If you're paddling in synch, you should also be able to see through the upside-down "V" of the paddler on the same side in front of you.
- Your lower arm should be only slightly bent, and your upper arm a little more so.
Stage 2: The stroke
- Your two arms and the paddle shaft form a triangle. Keep this triangle locked by avoiding the temptation to change the bend in your elbows. See figure 3.
- The act of paddling now becomes a downwards rotation of this triangle by pivoting your arms at your shoulders and using a slight twist of your upper body, lowering your paddle-side shoulder. Again, don't change the angle of your elbows.
- So, plunge the paddle downwards, dipping forward very slightly (if it helps) to apply some of your body weight onto the triangular unit. Force is applied by pushing down the length of the shaft of the paddle, not pulling the paddle perpendicularly to it. As your arms rotate, the paddle face applies a strong driving force against the water. If you insist on pulling with your lower arm by bending it tightly at the elbow, I take no responsibility if your biceps explode in under half an hour.
- Imagine a rod passing down through the centre of your head, your torso, your bum and on through the canoe seat. This rod is allowed to rotate, but shouldn't move back/forward or side to side. I.e. twist, don't duck. Like a vertical paddle, aim for this and you'll probably get it about right.
- Put on the power as soon as the paddle goes in. Really bury it. This is where your effort really counts.
Stage 3: The release
- As soon as the paddle shaft comes level with your hip, it's time to get it out. See figure 4. Any more power you apply will be wasted lifting water (which pulls the boat down deeper, slowing it down.) That's not good!
Paddling for too long on one side will lead to a build up of lactic acid on one of your shoulders and arms. Though it might not feel like much of an issue early in the day, if you repeatedly stay too long on one side, a lethargy will creep in (so your paddle rate will slow) and you'll be really sore by the end of the day. And the day after will be worse.
The only way around this is to switch sides very frequently. If you are paddling hard, you should start to feel that you want to switch every 50 strokes or so, i.e. about once a minute. So every paddler will have to be ambidextrous. Most people prefer paddling on one side or the other, but too bad!
But switching sides in a voyageur canoe is a much more complicated procedure than in a tandem canoe. Because the 25ft boats are much wider, all but the bow and stern (front and back) paddlers will need to slide a long way across their seats to the other side. This is potentially dangerous as, with everyone moving simultaneously, the boat can become quite unstable. There's nothing for it other than copious amounts of practice. So we'll have to wait until we get to Canada to perfect this.
For now, here's a short video clip (by Warren Long) of one team demonstrating their switching technique. It's only 4 seconds long, it's in quicktime format, and is 2MB big so may be more appropriate for those not on dial-up.Click here to watch the switching clip. You will need Apple's Quicktime installed on your computer to view it.
Big voyageur canoes track very well. That means they hold a straight course without too much intervention from the stern paddler (who is responsible for steering.) But nonetheless, after a short while, they do drift off course and some form of correction is needed by the stern paddler. There are two ways to do this:
- Correction stroke: the traditional technique is for the stern paddler to take a stroke out to perform a pry or draw to push or pull the tail of the canoe to keep the boat on line every 5th to 10th stroke.
- Switching: alternatively, the stern paddler can, independently from the other paddlers, switch sides to compensate for any deviation the boat is beginning to make from the desired line.
We'll experiment with both and see what works best for us (probably a combination of the two.)
For 98 percent of the time, the sternsman will be solely responsible for the steering. However, there are two days in the race itinerary (stage 1: The La Loche River, and stage 15: The South Weir) where the canoe will need to be manouvered more dexterously than the stern paddler alone can manage. On the La Loche River, there is a long section of very tight meandering bends through marsh and muskeg followed by sections of minor rapids. The South Weir, one of the most beautiful sections of the whole route, is almost one long continuous, gentle, shallow rapid with many submerged and exposed rocks. On these days, and in some of the other days' interspersed rapids, the sternsman will frequently need the assistance of the bow paddler to manouver the nose of the canoe.
All the people on the team are moderately fit. We don't need to be superlatively toned to compete in this race, but, competition aside, our individual enjoyment will be hugely increased if we can each get a bit fitter between now and our departure. This doesn't mean running marathons every day and eating cabbage soup, but a few weeks of healthy diet and frequent excercise will make our time in Canada much more fun.
I'm no dietition/fitness-coach, but from experience would recommend a balanced selection of the following activites:
- Aerobic Training: Whatever gets you huffing and puffing will help you lose weight and clear out your lungs in preparation to inhale the clean Northern Saskatchewan air. E.g. Jogging.
- Strength Training: Canoeing uses predominantly upper-body muscles (shoulders and arms.) Any activity which makes these bits of your body ache must be good for you! E.g. weights, press-ups, pull-ups (can anyone actually do these?)
- Endurance Training: This is, perhaps, the most important but under-valued element of preparation. Canoeing is easy, but canoeing for eight hours is not (even with a few breaks.) The key to success has as much to do with mental attitude as physical aptitude. Any activity which has you working for many hours at a time and makes you feel, not sore, but physically and mentally drained is good for this. E.g. hill-walking, digging garden trenches, farming.
- Combination Training: There are quite a few activities which combine all of the above, in varying proportions. E.g. swimming (especially front-crawl—it uses very similar muscles to canoeing,) rowing (ergo machines are good,) long-distance cycling, and of course, canoeing!
Loch Lomond training weekend: Cultural concord.